Always point at the temple.
Uge from Aquabumps posted this shot of my old home break recently and it brought back a flood of memories. I've had so many nice tubes there and all because of a little piece of advice I was given in Bali 20 years ago.
I was on my first Indo trip and was surfing Bingin the small but flawless barrel that breaks over the end section of the Impossibles reef. I was pulling in but not making the wave and getting rolled on the reef time and time again. I came in a little scratched and bleeding and one of the old time Bali locals said to me "you must point at the temple" and indicated the gently flapping yellow, black and white flags of the Hindu temple pereched on the cliff top above Belungan.
I paddled back out, caught a wave, pulled in and stretched my front arm out stright and high towards the temple on the cliff. My whole body followed and set my rail high and straight like my arm and I easily made the wave.
The next time I surfed my home break I pulled in, leading with my front arm and shoulder and pointed high and straight and made the barrel.
So just remember, when its critical, always point at the temple.
Micheal sent some pics to furthur illustrate the Bingin experiance.
Michael's flikr pics.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
Great story and valuable advice. Thanks for sharing.
ReplyDeletehttp://www.flickr.com/photos/michaelhagen/465873986/in/set-72157600699751556/
Great little wave there at Bingin....